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RUNNING COSTS
Other than fuel consumption, your ongoing cost considerations relate to maintenance, insurance, depreciation and the closeness of a franchised dealer.
Most new-car warranties insist on servicing being carried out within the main-dealer network, but some allow the use of approved garages as well. Check out the location of the relevant dealership, and find out its labour rate. Also ask if they provide a collection/ delivery service and a courtesy car.
Insurance group ratings (1 to 20) are only a guide, and different insurers read their own risk values into different cars, so ring round for several quotes, or rather, have a couple of brokers do it for you.
As for depreciation, consider this in relation to the length of time you intend keeping it. If it will be your last car and you’ll keep it indefinitely, depreciation won’t matter as after five years or so it bottoms out anyway. If you know you’ll change it in two years though, the depreciation is highly pertinent. Many highdepreciating cars are cheaper to buy, so factor that into the equation. Look up likely depreciation.
Don’t necessarily avoid a high-mileage car, particularly if it’s a diesel, which has a much more durable engine. What’s more important is a decent, uninterrupted service schedule.
DOCUMENTS
If you’re interested in a car that’s more than three years old, check its registration document. If this isn’t to hand, or if any details on the document are incorrect, walk away. Check the car’s chassis number matches the registration document, and ask for proof that the car has been serviced.
TEST DRIVE & CAR INTERIOR
Make sure you’re insured before taking a test drive. If the seller doesn’t want you to drive it, again walk away. Ideally you should start the car from cold, as that can reveal a number of engine faults. If the seller has already warmed it up, be suspicious. Get the car up to operating temperature and change all gears (up and down the box) at quite high revs to ensure the synchromesh is working.
At speed on a straight road, briefly let go of the steering to see if the car pulls to one side. A gentle drifting off to the near-side is normal, but anything more is not, and can be difficult to correct – particularly if it’s caused by a chassis bent by a prior collision.
Also check the brakes work well without causing a pull to either side, that they don’t judder under heavy braking, and the anti-lock braking system works (on a clear road, do an emergency stop, listening for the telltale chattering of the antilock.
Test the suspension over poor road surfaces, feeling for undue bounce and listening for
knocking noises. If either are present, forget the car. Make sure all electrical devices work, and ask the seller if he is aware of anything being wrong. While you’re in the car, inspect upholstery for wear, stains and cigarette burns. Have the steering wheel, gear lever knob and pedals rubbers been worn smooth? If so, does this tally with the mileage?
Finally, check the digits of the mileometer are all level; if not this suggests someone has tampered with the recorded mileage. A previous owner (detailed on the registration document) can tell you what the mileage was when it left their ownership.
Outside the car, and with it hot, have someone press the accelerator hard while you watch the exhaust. Some black smoke from a diesel is normal, but blue smoke from any engine indicates wear.
Take a look at the tyres, checking for bald treads and uneven wear (such as shoulders worn but central tread okay). You don’t want a car that wears tyres unevenly. If they’re just worn, factor in the cost of replacements and get that knocked off the asking price.
BODYWORK
Check for mismatched paint colours and orange-peel effect testifying to a bodged respray. Look in particular for any rust that may have been painted over. If you suspect an area of bodywork is filler rather than steel, use a magnet (carefully) to confirm this. Take a close look for corrosion at the door bottoms, wheel arches and side sills. Once a car has started rusting, it’s costly and difficult to stop. If there are any dents or scratches, either factor the cost of repairs into your offer, or turn your back on the deal.
And that’s pretty well it. Observe these warnings, get the necessary inspections done, and you will avail yourself of a good used car. Remember that anyone who refuses to let you thoroughly inspect and try a car probably has something to hide.
Did you know that about four times as many used cars as new ones are sold in South Africa each year?
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